Monthly Archives: February 2008

London Journal – Day 11 – Get Grapes Or Get Fame

One thing I have been regular about is listening to a late night radio show on Radio London (94.9 FM) with Tessa Dunlop. This is because that is what’s on while I type these blog entries. Anyhow, tonight I was doing just that and they talked with the director of an organisation which goes into prisons and recruits inmates to perform in theatre works. They do everything from acting to sound and lights.

The company, Only Connect UK, are about to produce their first show outside of the walls of a prison, The Grapes Of Wrath next week, in Kings Cross. Well, along for the interview with Ellen were Anthea McKenna and Josef Wilkinson, recent “guests of Her Majesty at HMP Wormwood Scrubs and HMP Holloway.” Tickets are for sale on their website, for shows next week. Right, I think, I’ll sign up.

Oops, doesn’t work. Website problems. I decide to write a quick note to the radio show to let them know. I include a comment on the death penalty, which is one of their topics du jour, following a couple of scandalous murder cases in recent weeks. Five minutes later they are reading my note on the air. That’s responsiveness for you!

Here is the note I sent:

Tessa, I love your show and am eager to buy tickets for Grapes, but the website is not working. Please let the good folk at Only Connect know that we are trying to support them, but their vendor are stopping us.

Cheers, and keep it up!
-nic

PS – As an American I can tell you that capital punishment is not all its cracked up to be. All people on death row have had their sentences delayed while we try to figure out how to humanely kill people. Something tells me this is a losing proposition. Lock people up and throw away the key, fine with me, but do not kill, not in my name!

That’s what I say and I’m sticking to it.

Ta!

Update: After my letter was read they launched into a discussion the crux of which was that my “Throw away the key” argument was fatuous since it cost so much, £40,000 per year, per inmate, to lock someone up. Well, that is a tired old lament, and no argument at all for execution. So, I wrote back:

To: tessa.dunlop@bbc.co.uk
Subject: More death penalty prattle

Thanks, Tessa, for reading my letter. I must object, however, with your
response; that lock them up sounds fine until you have to pay for it.
Again, look to the experience of the US. Many jurisdictions have
stopped the death penalty for economic reasons, as the costs of the
mandatory appeals run to the millions of dollars per case. Even if it
cost £40,000/year to house these miscreants, that is still cheaper than
£1m to pay for the appeals and then maybe still keep them alive.

Well, interestingly enough that caught her attention. “He’s got a point. There really is no easy answer to this conundrum is there…”

London Journal – Day 11 – Get Lost

I got lost for the first time tonight. I don’t count trying to find Hamiltons Gallery as being lost, because I had never looked up the address. Tonight, though, I got off the tube at Oxford Circus Station instead Piccadilly.  It was evening rush and I was on my way to theatre and I simply miscounted stops. By the time I realised it was too late to get back on — I was already in the street. Anyhow, in my hubris I thought I knew the way, but Soho in the dark is not a trifle! I did find my way, but it took away the time I had budgeted for grabbing a bite from a street vendor. Oh well, lesson learnt.

London Journal – Day 11 – Carnaby Street Kiss-Off

It is almost 11:00 on Friday night and I am settling back into my chair after a rolicking good night at theatre. What chair? you might ask. I said I would post a photo of my “workstation” so here it is:

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That’s my notebook on the stool, with my bluetooth keyboard balanced on top, and my mouse setting on the coffee table down to the left. Needless to say this is “sub-optimal” as we say in the business.

Much happened today. First off, it was a gorgeous day! It was already 10° when I woke up and 12 or 13 by the time I went out. Quite cheery it was. After my breakfast and coffee I once again took the tube down to Leicester Square where I scored a front row seat for “The Lover/The Collection,” a pair of Harold Pinter teleplays from the 1960’s. They were fantastic, as were the company who put them on. Brilliant performances all of them.

After Tkts, I strolled up to Soho and Carnaby Street. Any of that gritty charm it had in the 60’s, as shown in Antoniono’s classic film “Blow Up” are gone now. It is just another tourist trap cum overpriced market. Soho is a schizophrenic district to be sure. It is the centre of fashion and design, but also of sex clubs and seedy shops. It was the trendy spot for kids, but a generation ago, and so now an out of date version of that.

A recent headline in the tabloids proclaimed that a recent survey has shown that the East End is the new West End, and the West End is the new snooze-ville. The West End is only for tourists and your parents, the East End is where it’s happening, and if you don’t know that you’re dead. Well, I can say that if Carnaby Street is your gauge, then they’re right. Here is how Carnaby Street looked to an Italian fashion photog in 1967:

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Here is what it looks like today:

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Oh, and for the record, the mini is back:

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So is the kiss, which is what brought me here. The “Carnaby Kiss” to be specific, at the Carnaby Gallery

There are about 40 images and I must say I liked at least half of them. My favourite was “Handbag.” It is left as an exercise for the reader to figure out what that looks like.

The other fashion trend which is inescapable here, and I commented on previously, is short shorts with stockings and with cuffs. Cuffs. Think about that… really short shorts with cuffs. Strange, and in February.

Found some interesting shop windows at Liberty of London and fancied myself a little photog myself. Here are a few shots:

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Out of Soho and into Oxford Street. Got this interesting image off Hanover Square. I am not sure what it’s on about, but here it is:

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Must be drugs I figure.

Then it was back uptown, I walked through Marylebone and across to Bloomsbury. Got some lunch at an Indian buffet, then to Regent’s Park where I got one with nature.

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Anyway, that was my day. How was yours?

Just so that I am not talking to myself too much, I would like to remind my readers that you can comment on any story by simply clicking on the “Comments” link right down there \/

London Journal – Day 10 – About A Fridge

Now that we’ve caught up to the present, I think I should comment that just because I have shown you a lot of pictures of famous places, don’t think that I have visited them all. I have spent most of my time just strolling neighbourhoods, exploring the city, going to pubs, café, restaurants, markets and shops. I really haven’t written about most of this. This is real life, the day to day routine which goes into living somewhere.

I have been asked directions by locals and tourists. I was welcomed to London by an Australian who, after hearing me explain to a local that I couldn’t help them because I was just visiting, said “And how long have you been here?” “Just today, I’ve got a month, though.” “Oy, you’ll need it. I’ve been here three and I still don’t know where I’m at.”

I have been helpful when I could, and honest when I couldn’t.

I have a few observations for you.

1) Young children sound more plaintive with English accents. Also French. This might go a long way to explaining why French and English children are spoilt so. It also might explain a lot about German and Slavic children’s lot.

2) As much as the English have a well earned reputation for politeness (see the “works” signs photos) they are brutal on each other in conversation. “Daft cow!” is not just rumour, you really hear that. I was listening to a few chums at a pub, and they were one-upping each other with bawdy, rude put downs. No “Your mamma” jokes though. These were all strictly personal attacks.

3) Stand on the right! Repeat after me, stand on the right. Oh, and keep left!

4) Here is a handy comparison table for you, so you can tell whether you’re in Milwaukee, New York or London:

Milwaukee New York London
Thin Visitor Native Native
Fat Native Visitor Visitor
Health care Private $ Private $ National
Public Transit Dying Thriving Thriving
Cash Dispenser Tyme Machine ATM Cash point
Parks Great Great Great!
Walk/Drive on Right Right Left
Stand on What? Right Right

It is 11 °C (52 °F) right now and I’m sitting in the courtyard of my building typing this since this is the only place with a real table and chair. I will include a photo of my regular typing situation sometime soon. Needless to say, however, after an hour or so of this my hands are getting cold. So, I am going to wrap with news of today and some last few photos.

Oh, and before I forget. Tango Por Dos last night was a treat. My seat was in Dress Circle (balcony) but was still very good. I like watching dance from above, it really can be nice. My seat mate was a lovely older woman from Ireland who comes to London every month or two for one or two nights and just sees all the cheap shows she can. This was the third or fourth time she has seen this troupe, they come here every year at this time.

After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon (the last of each, must stop at Tesco or Sainsbury’s) I found a little cafe, Café Téo, on Baker Street for a really cheap cappuccino. Must remember them. Then on to the Wallace Collection. Wonderful stuff, great building. Brilliant!

Then it was back to Mayfair, armed with the knowledge of just where Carlos Place is, and I found Hamilton’s Gallery just fine. Well worth it, too. I really liked Watson’s photos.

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Then it was back to Leicester Square and this time a seat for A Prayer For My Daughter at the Young Vic (as compared to the Old Vic) down at Waterloo. I took advantage of the public loo, and was then heading back towards Piccadilly to catch a train home, but I was button-holed by a young bloke with a clipboard in front of the Odeon. He asked me if I had a moment, and I figured why not. “Are you an American?” “Yes.” “May I ask, Clinton or Obama?” “Obama.” “Brilliant, I’m an Obama guy! Do you live here?” “No I’m just visiting.” “Oh, there you’ve broke my heart.” and that was that. I think he was selling eye glass insurance or something like that.

A I left him and put my sights on Piccadilly, I notice a couple of men standing next to a small fridge. In Leicester Square, a fridge. Could only mean one thing. “Is this the Irish fridge then?” I asked the nearest one while I got my camera out. There was a young guy with a hand truck, and another with a big camera. Then there was Tony Hawks and a friend, and his fridge.

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Now many of you may be wondering what I’m going on about, but others of you are smiling and chuckling. Tony Hawks, (the writer, not the skateboarder) is a writer for several comedy and other shows in England and has written “Round Ireland with a fridge” and “Playing the Moldovans at tennis.” Both are accounts of seeing out bets made under the influence. I won’t recount the books here, but you can find them at your library or bookshop.

I shook his hand, let him stage a photo-op for my benefit, and told him how much I have enjoyed his books. I heard him read “Moldovans” on Chapter A Day on BBC2 the last time I was here and went right out and bought it. He told me that they’re planning a film version of Round Ireland, which is why he and his fridge were on the Square with a camera crew in tow. I bade him well and strode off towards Piccadilly. “Ay, aint that the bloke with the fridge?” asked a guy passing by. “Yes, that’s Tony Hawks.” I replied. “That’s brilliant, that is.” he beamed.

Back home again. I stopped at Café Téo for some cheap soup and such for lunch.

I had to come in off the patio due to rain. My hands are finally warming up. Thank goodness the notebook kicks off so much heat!

Ta!

London Journal – Day 9 – More Catchup

Yesterday was a really pleasant day. It was brisk cold in the morning, and never did warm up much. I started my day with a trip down to Leicester Square and the Tkts booth. I scored a cheap seat for Tango Por Dos at The Peacock Theatre for 7:30, and then headed down to Green Park to check out the Queen’s gardening prowess and write a post card or two. Here is a view of the park shrouded with fog (freezing fog, as the weather reports had it, but they exaggerate):smaller-cimg0047.JPG

From there I went in search of Hamilton’s Gallery, a toni gallery in Mayfair catering in exclusive photography. I had seen that they had an exhibit of 12 new pieces by Albert Watson “Miss Beehayving” that I wanted to see.

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Now my friend LJ had warned me about certain neighbourhoods: “a Dodgy part of town. Southwark…but very cool and interesting” she wrote. Well, no one warned me about Mayfair! This is a very scary place indeed. More money is poured into real estate here than just about anywhere else on the planet. The most expensive flat here is a new penthouse going up with a £100Million price tag. I wasn’t really sure where “13 Carlos Place” was, and it didn’t show on my map, so I just kept strolling around, doing a grid, hoping that I would find it. I even asked a helpful cabby, but without luck. Finally gave up and bailed.

Here is one place I came across on my search. Don’t let the name confuse you, its just a bunch of high-priced “Global Consultants”:
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The only folk I know consult globes are fortune tellers, and I imagine they cost less, too.

Then it was off to Tate Modern — They have a big new exhibit on Duchamp, Man Ray and Picabia. That’s down by Southwark, sorry LJ! I took the tube to London Bridge and headed for the Thames. Here’s a set of photos taken from one spot, just to show how different a place looks depending upon which way you’re facing:

South:
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East:
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West:
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Here’s Tower Bridge:
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And here’s the Tower of London”
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I then strolled on along the Queen’s Walk to the Tate. Along the way I found The Clink:
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Don’t want to get thrown in there!

Well, in keeping with my fecklessness, I didn’t bother to check the dates on the new show, and it doesn’t open until the 21st. Oops! Oh well. I have seen a lot of DuChamp and Man Ray exhibitions, so if I miss it it’s not the end of the world. I went ahead and checked out the permanent collection and then cross the Millennium Bridge and take a tube back home.

There will be laundry!

London Journal – Catchup on Day 8

Catchup time.

I’ve been discouraged since that Art Appreciation piece went off so poorly. I need to find better examples of Hockney and Doig to make that work. The perfect pieces were those in Tate Britain itself, all within 30 yards of each other, in adjacent galleries. Oh well, I’ll try to update it.

On Tuesday I took some shots on my way back from Tate Britain. Here are a few of those.

The Tate itself, view from Milbank:
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Chestnut trees along Milbank:
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London: Old and New:
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That’s the Houses of Parliament in the distance on the left, Victoria Tower, and The London Eye towards the right.

Houses of Parliament:
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Chestnut Trees leaning over Milbank, near Houses of Parliament:
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Westminster Abbey in the mist and trees:
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Stressed out sculpture by Whitehall:
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Big Ben from behind:
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London Journal – Day 8 – A Little Art Appreciation

A new day dawned with the same cold start that has been the hallmark of this week. Folk here are pretty upset about how bizarre their weather has been of late. There has been a strange system stalled around here which has lead to some very high highs and some very low lows. None of it appreciated.

Nowhere else would people complain about 65 degree weather in February, but when they had a high of 18.2 °C (64.76 °F)in Wales a few days ago there were complaints aplenty! Me, I came dressed for crappy Wisconsin weather, so I just get another layer out of the closet and get on with it.

This morning took me to St. Pancras station to confirm a return ticket on First Capital for Gatwick on 3 Mar. I tried to do this online but it is not possible. They start out by asking your country of residence, so I picked US from the menu. Then they give you a form to fill out and one of the required fields is “Postal Code” and it will only accept UK postal codes. Go figure.

After leaving St. Pan’s I went west to the other St. Pan’s; St. Pancras Church. I went to see an exhibit of cartography called “The Island – London Series” by Stephen Walker. I am not quite sure where to begin with this exhibit. I guess I’ll start with the setting. This is exhibited in the crypt of St. Pancras. Although the current structure dates only from 1819-22, the parish goes back at least 600 years, and is thought to be one of the oldest Christian worships in Great Britian. The current crypt hasn’t been used for burial purposes for quite some time, and the markers are rather unceremoniously been laid up in a pile in one corner.

The work itself is impressive. Mr. Walker has fashioned hand drawn maps of the entire London area, and I don’t mean the kind of cartoon map that Saul Steinberg made iconic in 1976 with his “View of the World from 9th Avenue”:

No, these are detailed yet hand drawn maps, well a map, and several sections of it. How to explain…

The original is about 200 cm. x 400 cm. and is so tightly packed with information that you need a magnifying glass to even begin to penetrate the detail. Thankfully you are handed one at the door. Then there are the sections. There are over 40 of these, each overlaps its neighbours and provides the same information as the comprehensive map, but in more readable format.

The conceit of the whole piece is London as an island (hence the title) and it is well executed. Red Groom would blush at what this young artist has done, but has nothing to fear from him in terms of illustration. The whole piece is a triumph of wit and execution, but whether it is a great artistic accomplishment will await the judgement of more critical eyes than mine. I enjoyed it, but I doubt that it is Great. That is my verdict. I will say this: If Mr. Walker does not succeed it will not be for lack of effort on his behalf by TAG; my entire visit was serenaded by the lilting tone of his very efficacious agent on his mobile trying to get various influential collectors in to view this “very important” show.

I bought the catalogue if anyone cares to see it.

Next up was a horse of a different colour, as they say. Down to the Tate British, off of Millbank. The big shows right now are “Peter Doig”:

and “Modern Painters – The Camden Town Group”:

The Camden Town bit was what one would expect. A lot of copy-cat pieces inspired by the work ongoing in France at the time, but with a gritty English tilt. I don’t mean this too sound as dismissive as it does. I really wasn’t aware of the art of these chaps, Spencer Gore, Charles Ginner, Harold Gilman, Walter Richard Sickert, William Ratcliffe and Robert Bevan key among them. But, there is little here to recommend the school as more than an echo of what was happening on the continent. There is one important element, which is Sickert’s work in illustrating a sex and murder scandal of the late 1890s which broke new ground with art as a commentary on news. We still hear reverberations of this today in everything from Blueman and Jenny Holtzer, and before them Weegee and his bretherin.

The Doig exhibit, on the other hand, presented something which we haven’t seen before, at least not in just this form. Though his work seems heavily influenced by the work of Francis Bacon, David Hockney and Ed Paschke, it is both new and descendent. Doig tends to work in large canvases, like those three, and he uses parts of each of their techniques. From Paschke he draws the skill of over-painting the scene in such a way that he obscures almost the enitirety of it yet manages to lose nothing. To see what I mean, consider this piece of Paschke’s, “Blanco” from 1992:

In this piece, as with his others, Paschke has distilled the image down to that which we need to construct a face with which, even if we are not comfortable, we at least associate.

Now consider one by Hockney:

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Now a pair of pieces by Bacon:

Lastly a piece by Doig:

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Am I the only one who sees a progression here?

Thanks for putting up with my little art appreciation course. Sorry if I went overboard there…

I will follow up tomorrow morn with more photos from the day.

Ta!