Monthly Archives: February 2013

Words from the Northwest

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Having a nice time here in Portlandia so far.  Got to bed at 9:00 PST last night, so dang tired after having got up at 4:00 CST to get to the plane.

Lunch was Pok Pok, a Thai (mostly) restaurant my brother recommended.  James Beard nominated even.  Had a fabulous bowl of Kuaytiaw Reus (Boat Noodles), which is a rich broth with stewed beef, poached beef, meatballs (little tiny, dense, things), spinach, chilies and bean sprouts, with noodles.  Yum!  Along side I had an order of their Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, which my brother said were to die for, and he was right.  These are large wings, (willingly given up by their former, naturally raised owners) marinated in fish sauce and palm sugar, deep fried, and then tossed in caramelized Phu Quec fish sauce and garlic.  Wow!  Could only eat half the order, though.  So much food.

Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings - Pok Pok

Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings - Pok Pok

Then off to Portland Art Museum, which has a fairly rich collection.  Many donations from the likes of the Broad Foundation, Paul Allen Foundation, some Ayers family trusts and foundations, etc.  A lot of contemporary art, as well as the normal smattering of French schools, Impressionists, Abstract Expressionists, etc.

There was a lovely exhibition “In The Studio: Reflections on Artistic Life”, on display through May 19th.  This exhibit features multiple media representations of the artists life in his/her atelier, with models, materials, influences, mentors, gallerists, agents, etc.  All aspects of what actually goes in to being an artist.  I really loved all the Red Grooms pieces, of which there were many, including some of his 3D Lithography pieces.

Jackson in Action - Red Grooms, 1997

Jackson in Action - Red Grooms, 1997

Also, a very large collection of Asian arts.  My favorite was the soon-to-close exhibit on Noh, the ancient Japanese theatrical form of the Samurai.  This exhibit featured masks, costumes and painted depictions of Noh, both modern and historic.  A very nice 2 and a half hours of browsing after lunch.

Ayakashi (Vengeful Warrior) - Unknown Artist, Japan, 17th century

Ayakashi (Vengeful Warrior) - Unknown Artist, Japan, 17th century

I then went in search of a new power screwdriver, to replace the DeWalt 12V electric screwdriver which was confiscated by TSA agents.
No, really.  I didn’t know you couldn’t bring one in carry-on.  To be perfectly honest, I didn’t even really think about it.  When I packed, I tried to consciously pack for either checking or carrying on my bag.  When I saw how bad the weather was on the way to the airport, I decided to carry on, in case I ended up missing my (very tight) connecting flight in Denver.  After standing in the longest security line I’ve ever experienced (at MKE or anywhere) I was told I could either give up the screw driver or go back and check my bag.  Well, at that point I would have missed my flight (I ended up getting to the gate just as they made my boarding call) so I gave it up.

I started with a small, local, hardware store, but they didn’t have that model.  They sent me to the DeWalt store (yes, they have one here) or the “Home Despot”, but thanked me for trying their small store first.  I was headed to the DeWalt shop, but saw a Home Depot on the way, right next to my hotel, so stopped there, hopeful that they would still have one of last year’s models, as I still have the batteries, charger and other accessories of the lost tool, I wanted to get the same kind.

In the process, I ended up driving from NE (airport) to SW (Pok Pok) to Downtown (Art Museum) to N Central (Hardware) to NE (Hotel)  — pretty much making a circuit of the city, mostly on surface streets.  That was a treat.

Dinner took me to a nearby hotel which has a nice-enough restaurant attached, Shilo, as I didn’t want to drive after having a cocktail.  It’s not as though Portland has any want of bars, taverns, cocktail lounges, etc.  The demon alcohol lays comfortably here.  The prevailing impression I have of the city, based on what I’ve seen so far, is of a really big version of our own Riverwest community, with coops, coffee shops, bars, taverns, brewing clubs (coffee and beer), bicycle shops (and coops), skateboard and moto clubs and shops, etc.  Lots of bungalows and ranch houses, all very low and surrounded by verdure.

Anyhow, had some crab cakes, which were okay, along with Happy Hour discounted coconut shrimp and a Caesar salad.  That, along with a couple of Martinis made with the local The Rogue (hat tip to Sarah Pallin) sealed things nicely, for a manageable $42 + tip.

One observation is that it is sometimes hard to tell the upright citizenry from the large homeless population — the preferred dress is strikingly similar.  It’s not unusual to see someone in a nice establishment who you would swear you recently saw pan-handling on the street.  Maybe they are the same, who’s to say…

Words From The River – Part III

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Had a nice little visit to Beale Street last night.  Went to Alfred’s on Beale for dinner and the Memphis Jazz Orchestra.  The former was so-so, the latter quite good.

The St. Louis art scene was sparse yesterday.  It being Sunday, almost everything was closed, save SLAM and CAMSTL.  CAMSTL, unfortunately, was entirely given over to the Jeremy Deller exhibit we saw in London last year.  Oh well, off I went to SLAM, located in the central Forest Park, along with the Zoo and several other cultural sites.  Quite a lovely park, if I do say.

Right off the bat I saw a piece I liked, an Anselm Keifer “Bookcase” piece:

Anselm Keifer

Anselm Keifer

The collection at SLAM is typical for regional art museums, with the exception of a large collection of Max Beckman, and other 20th century German artists, all from a bequest of Morton D. May, of May’s Department Stores.  The museum is currently getting a new addition, which will open in June of this year.  Unfortunately, that limited my visit somewhat.  One highlight, which will likely draw me back again, was “Stone Sea” by Andy Goldsworthy, which the museum commissioned last year.  The piece, a densely packed cacophony of stone arches is in a well between two galleries, but is currently visible only by peering down from the windows of the museum café.  Once the new galleries are open, this will be much easier to see.

Andy Goldsworthy - Stone Sea (2012)

Andy Goldsworthy - Stone Sea (2012)

Funny thing is that I only stumbled across this when I saw a large selection of Goldworthy’s books in the gift shop.  I quickly Googled and found that he had made the piece.  A helpful docent suggested the café viewing option.  Thanks!

Back on the road, I decided to bail on the Interstate and drove about an hour or two on US-61, the “Big River Road” down to Cape Gerardeau, MO.  That was a great choice!  I’ve grown weary of the sameness of the expressway view of the world, and really enjoyed the ups and downs, swerving and turning, slowing and stopping and small towns along the way of the old road.

The other day, on my way from Wichita to Jefferson City, I found myself driving right underneath a humongous bird swirl.  You know, one of those massive flocks of, typically, starlings, which swoop and flit as one — much like schools of fish in the ocean.  Well, back on the highway for the stretch through Arkansas, around mile marker 41 on I-55 in Arkansas, I was underneath two even bigger ones, combining into one!!

It was like the most sensual dance you have ever seen, this airborne pas de duex, as the two flocks seemed unsure (like tentative lovers) whether to combine or not.  Ef-ing spectacular!!  I cannot even begin to do justice to this in words, it was an almost religious experience.  Then, about 20 miles later, I was underneath yet another large flock.  These all happened around sunset, which I think is when the starlings take flight in search of their insect prey.

Anyhow, the drive to Memphis was nice.  I had a pleasant evening stroll through a mostly abandoned downtown, seeking something to read at dinner (having exhausted every word in my New Yorker).  I finally came across a Memphis Flyer box with a few issues in it, and over dinner immersed myself in that.  Good read.

Words From The River – Part II

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Seen by the side of I35 in Iowa: “Exit 133 Ellsworth Radcliffe”  Sounds like a title and author to me.  What say?  A new nom de plume?

Seen by side of US-50, about 9 miles west of Sadalia, Missouri.  A roadside stop, typical size, but with a large electronic sign above, almost as large as the store-front itself.  On the sign, in sequence, was displayed: “3 Tacos $2.09” “Tax Returns $34.95” “4 Clean Bathrooms”.  My question; is the count on that last item automatically updated as conditions change?

I am now safely ensconced in St. Louis, MO, right next door to the convention center.  As in I look out my windows, ample as they are, and that it all I can see.  I just had dinner at Copia, a very over priced joint over on Washington St., a couple of blocks away.  Surf & Turf with a wee little fillet and some lobster tail, a Caesar salad and a couple of Uncle Val’s (!) Martinis came to $75 + tip.  Oh well, balanced against my McDonald’s fish sandwich (last night) and the gas station sandwich (lunch today), my per diem can handle the heavy lifting.

The hotel is an odd bit.  A Ramada Plaza Inn, it has some accoutrement, and completely lacks others.  Large room, with large bathroom, but only one trash bin.  A CRT television (when was the last time you saw one of those?) which is weird, but at least everything looks normal, unlike the stretched and squashed visages on most hotel room HDTV sets.  Ice bucket, but no liner.  No glasses at all, paper cups for everything.

No time for sight seeing in Wichita, KS or Jefferson City, MO, but that’s probably no great loss, right?  Hotel is rife with scholastic volleyball players — this being the site of the annual President’s Day Invitational Tournament, or something like that.  Hundreds of kids, all unbearably wholesome.  What could go wrong?

Words from the River – Part 1

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I stopped in to a liquor store in Eagan, MN yesterday, to pick up some Scotch.  My favorite swill, Clan McGreggor.  They had liters for $12.99 or 1.75 liter for $26.99.  Say What?!?  Bought a small bottle.

Worked at the client’s last night from 6:00 – 11:30.  Drove home in wet, sloppy, snow, but safely.  Had a couple of scotches while watching TV, until suddenly all the channels went away.  Called the front desk.  “Oh, it must be because of the storm.” said the gormless twit behind the desk.  Ha, Storm?!?  This is ef-ing Minnesota, and a little teeny snow storm knocks out their satellite feed??  No excuse if you ask me.

Drove down to Kansas City today.  Currently ensconced in the Holiday Inn at the Country Club Plaza, which if you know KC you know is a tony address.  The Nelson-Atkins is just a short walk away.

Speaking of arts museums, went to the Walker yesterday.  Had to pay the $12, as I left my MAM membership at home (grrr).  Great new building — much different than the last time I was there, maybe 20 years ago.  Had a huge exhibit on Cindy Sherman.  WOW!  Did you read the profile of Lena Dunham’s mother, the artist Laurie Simmons, in the New Yorker recently?  In it, they talked about her knocking around Metro Pictures and other “in” galleries in the 70s & 80s, and she talked about learning to make good looking prints, and what a change that made to her work.  Well, the same can be said for Sherman, a regular member of the Metro Pictures stable of artists.  Her “Hollywood Film Stills” project is amazing, and the later, larger, work is simply arresting.  So glad I got to see the show.

They also have a large installation called Midnight Party, which is a sprawling conglomeration of hundreds of works by over a hundred artsists, mostly pulled from their collection, and arranged brilliantly across several galleries on 3 floors.  Some rooms are given over to curio-cabinet style displays, like a natural history museum, but all art.  Quite good.

My only complaint was that the lighting, in general, was abysmal.  Very hard to appreciate some of the work for all the glare.

I just got home from a fabulous dinner at Oklahoma Joe’s Bar-B-Que, in KC, KS.  Here’s about 1/4 of the line of people waiting to order:

Queue at Oklahoma Joe's Bar-B-Que

Queue at Oklahoma Joe's Bar-B-Que

That line twists and turns all the way to the street door.  If it weren’t Valentine’s Day, I was told, the line would be out the door and down the block.  Thank God I was dining alone on V Day, I say!

Here’s my dinner.  I ordered a full rack with a side of coleslaw.  The grill man hollered out, “Special Creamy!!”  I almost blushed. 😉

Special Creamy

Special Creamy

That’s either mighty fine eatin’, or a piece of Christopher Dorner.  You be the judge!

This nice older couple came and sat next to me.  Had a nice little conversation with them until the woman explained, “I talk to two kinds of people in this world; those who have accepted Jesus Christ Our Lord into their lives and hearts, and those who are just about ready to.  Which type are you?”

“I’m the type who doesn’t believe in discussing religion with strangers over dinner.” I replied, and turned back to my food.  What I wanted to say was something witty, like “If we’re going to discuss deeply personal and private matters, let’s talk about masturbation habits, instead.  I’m sure it’ll be way more interesting!” 😉

Now back at the hotel, after trying to navigate dense, cryptic KC traffic and roadways without GPS.  I was currently busy trying not to run down the horse drawn carriages that look like Tiffany Pumpkins festooned with garish lighting, slowly ferrying their cargo through the self-same cryptic streets.  Thank god the other drivers were so busy gawking that they ignore my severe traffic transgressions.

Words From The River – Introduction

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Taking a business trip to several locations in the Midwest and South.  Flying to Minneapolis/St. Paul and from there driving to Kansas City, Wichita, Jefferson City, St. Louis, Memphis, Baton Rouge and, finally, New Orleans — then fly home.  I will be staying one night in each location, save Jefferson City, from whence I will repair to St. Louis, post haste.

The work must happen at night, so my days, when not given over to driving, are my own, and to this end I have mapped out the art museums and other key cultural attractions in each locale.  Walker Arts in MN.  Ribs in KC, KS.  Nelson-Atkins in KC, MO. SLAM in St. Louis, etc.

The following articles originate from somewhere along the great rivers of the US heartland — the Mississippi, Missouri and Arkansas.